www.PapuaExpeditions.com
Homepage Copyright Contact us Sitemap

Arfak Mountains

The northeastern region of the Bird’s Head or Vogelkop Peninsula is made up of an isolated yet massive, more or less continuous mountain chain. The name ‘Tamrau’ applies to the western portion, bisected by the grassy Kebar Valley, heartland of the indigenous Karoon people. The Tamrau Mountains have been very scantily surveyed for any purpose till this day. In contrast, the easternmost sector, known as the Arfak Mountains — ‘Arfak’ meaning little more than ‘interior’ in the language of the coastal Biak people — is since Dutch colonial times one of the most frequently explored and best known regions of western New Guinea.

As a consequence of this factor, and because they support all presently described Vogelkop endemics as well as provide straightforward access to largely untouched foothill, hill and montane forests that support a wonderfully diverse avifauna, the rugged Arfak Mountains are bound to become Papua’s premier birding destination. In the northeastern watershed these mountains rise steeply from the sea — little or no coastal plain being present here — to reach a high point on Mount Humeibo (2,820 m), which, when viewed from the provincial capital and gateway Manokwari — the ‘Dorey’ of former days — is nearly hidden by Mount Tumyobou (2,480 m). Hatam, Meyah and Sougb tribal people, who speak mutually unintelligible languages, all call the Arfaks home, and ultimately are the guardians of the future of these mountains’ exquisite yet increasingly threatened birdlife.

Arfak hill forest birds

Four typical inhabitants of Arfak hill forests, clockwise from upper right: Rusty Whistler Pachycephala hyperythra, Magnificent Bird of Paradise Cicinnurus magnificus, gorgeous Chestnut-backed Jewel-Babbler Ptilorrhoa castanonotus, and Black-chinned Robin Poecilodryas brachyura.

The Bird’s Head region, which for our purpose comprises the actual Bird’s Head Peninsula plus the Bomberai and Wandammen peninsulas as far east as the ‘Zoogeographer’s Gap’, harbors 10 endemic bird species, all of which occur in the Arfak area. Among these are the Vogelkop Bowerbird Amblyornis inornatus with its awesome, elaborately decorated bowers, the beautiful and little-known Arfak Astrapia Astrapia nigra, the rare Long-tailed Paradigalla Paradigalla carunculata, easily overlooked when not vocalizing, and the violently enrapturing Western Parotia Parotia sefilata. In addition, the Bird’s Head boasts 21 species with a restricted range, 15 of which can be seen in the Arfaks. In total, more than 320 bird species have so far been recorded from the Arfak region.

Arfak montane forest birds

The Arfaks are an excellent place to get to grips with a good selection of New Guinea's splendid montane avifauna, clockwise from left: Mountain Owlet-Nightjar Aegotheles albertisi, Cinnamon-browed Melidectes Melidectes ochromelas, Spotted Jewel-Babbler Ptilorrhoa leucosticta, and Rufous-sided Honeyeater Ptiloprora erythropleura.

Vogelkop endemic birds (10 species)

White-striped Forest-Rail Rallina leucospila
Vogelkop Bowerbird Amblyornis inornatus
Vogelkop Melidectes Melidectes leucostephes
Western Smoky Honeyeater Melipotes gymnops
Vogelkop Scrubwren Sericornis rufescens
Vogelkop Whistler Pachycephala meyeri
Long-tailed Paradigalla Paradigalla carunculata
Western Parotia Parotia sefilata
Arfak Astrapia Astrapia nigra
Grey-banded Munia Lonchura vana

Restricted-range species (15 species)

Red-billed Talegalla Talegalla cuvieri
Red-breasted Paradise-Kingfisher Tanysiptera nympha
Black Lory Chalcopsitta atra
Modest Tiger-Parrot Psittacella modesta
Archbold’s Nightjar Eurostopodus archboldi
Western Crowned-Pigeon Goura cristata
Chestnut Forest-Rail Rallina rubra
Rufous-sided Honeyeater Ptiloprora erythropleura
Cinnamon-browed Melidectes Melidectes ochromelas
Smoky Robin Peneothello cryptoleucus
Green-backed Robin Pachycephalopsis hattamensis
Painted Quail-thrush Cinclosoma ajax
Greater Melampitta Melampitta gigantea
Olive-crowned Flowerpecker Dicaeum pectorale
Obscure Berrypecker Melanocharis arfakiana

Widespread goodies

Dwarf Cassowary Casuarius bennetti
Northern Cassowary Casuarius unappendiculatus
Wattled Brush-turkey Aepypodius arfakianus
Salvadori’s Teal Salvadorina waigiuensis
Shovel-billed Kookaburra Clytoceyx rex
Rufous-throated Chrysococcyx ruficollis
White-eared Bronze-Cuckoo Chrysococcyx meyeri
Yellow-capped Pygmy-Parrot Micropsitta keiensis
Red-breasted Pygmy-Parrot Micropsitta bruijnii
Large Fig-Parrot Psittaculirostris desmarestii
Blue-collared Parrot Geoffroyus simplex
Pesquet’s Parrot Psittrichas fulgidus
Moluccan King-Parrot Alisterus amboinensis
Sooty Owl Tyto tenebricosa
Wallace's Owlet-Nightjar Aegotheles wallacii
Barred Owlet-Nightjar Aegotheles bennettii
Mountain Owlet-Nightjar Aegotheles albertisi
Large Owlet-Nightjar Aegotheles insignis
New Guinea Bronzewing Henicophaps albifrons
Cinnamon Ground-Dove Gallicolumba rufigula
Bronze Ground-Dove Gallicolumba beccarii
Thick-billed Ground-Pigeon Trugon terrestris
Pheasant Pigeon Otidiphaps nobilis
Lewin’s Rail Lewinia pectoralis
Spotless Crake Porzana tabuensis
New Guinea Woodcock Scolopax rosenbergii
Black-mantled Goshawk Accipiter melanochlamys
New Guinea Eagle Harpyopsis novaeguineae
Papuan Treecreeper Cormobates placens
Masked Bowerbird Sericulus aureus
Black-throated Honeyeater Lichenostomus subfrenatus
Garnet Robin Eugerygone rubra
Black-chinned Robin Poecilodryas brachyura
Blue-grey Robin Peneothello cyanus
White-rumped Robin Peneothello bimaculatus
Ashy Robin Heteromyias albispecularis
New Guinea Logrunner Orthonyx novaeguineae
Spotted Jewel-Babbler Ptilorrhoa leucosticta
Blue Jewel-Babbler Ptilorrhoa caerulescens
Chestnut-backed Jewel-Babbler Ptilorrhoa castanonota
Mottled Whistler Rhagologus leucostigma
Rusty Whistler Pachycephala hyperythra
Hooded Pitohui Pitohui dichrous
Crested Pitohui Pitohui cristatus
Black Pitohui Pitohui nigrescens
Glossy-mantled Manucode Manucodia atra
Crinkle-collared Manucode Manucodia chalybata
Trumpet Manucode Manucodia keraudrenii
Black Sicklebill Epimachus fastuosus
Black-billed Sicklebill Epimachus albertisi
Magnificent Riflebird Ptiloris magnificus
Superb Bird of Paradise Lophorina superba
Magnificent Bird of Paradise Cicinnurus magnificus
King Bird of Paradise Cicinnurus regius
Lesser Bird of Paradise Paradisaea minor
Great Wood-swallow Artamus maximus
Rufous Monarch Monarcha rubiensis
Torrent Lark Grallina bruijni

Related links

Read on about our short birding break to the Arfak Mountains.

Read on about our prolonged birding expeditions visiting the Arfak Mountains.

Browse our check-list of the birds of Papua.

Quite understandably, early collectors working in the Arfak Mountains were under the initial impression that the unreal bowers of the Vogelkop Bowerbird Amblyornis inornatus were little toy houses created by the indigenous Papuan children.
    Arfak Mountains birding facts
  • Probably the premier bird watching destination in Papua.
  • All 10 'Vogelkop' endemics occur as well as 15 out of 21 restricted-range birds present in the Bird's Head region.
  • Homeland of avian delights as Vogelkop Bowerbird, Arfak Astrapia, Western Parotia, and Long-tailed Paradigalla.
  • Straightforward access to largely untouched foothill, hill and montane forests that support a wonderfully varied birdlife comprising in excess of 320 species.
  • Heartland of friendly Hatam, Meyah and Sougb tribal people, unspoiled by mass tourism.
  • The possibility to combine birding with a real trekking adventure off the beaten track.

Terra typica
Some secluded Arfak endemic forms became known in Europe remarkably early into the 18th century. The Arfak Astrapia, for instance, was first illustrated as early as 1734! However, it took until September 1872 before the exuberant L. M. D’Albertis would be the first European collector to penetrate any distance into the Arfaks and as a matter of fact into montane New Guinea as a whole! The Arfak Mountains thus constitute the type locality of numerous widespread upland New Guinea animals and therefore alone are renowned in scientific literature. D’Albertis was followed by that other great Italian collector, O. Beccari, by native hunters in the service of A. A. Bruijn, by J. M. Dumas, F. Shaw-Mayer, E. Mayr, S. Bergman, and by a number of less known field collectors, who between them, little by little, unveiled and documented the enchanting birdlife of the Arfaks.

Copyright © 2005-2008 Papua Expeditions/cv.Ekonexion • Best browsed with IE 7.0