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Amazing Arfak

This birding expedition focuses exclusively on the isolated and rugged Arfak Mountains in the eastern sector of the Bird's Head near the provincial capital Manokwari. Bound to become Papua's premier birding destination, the Arfaks support all presently described Vogelkop endemics and provide straightforward access to largely untouched foothill, hill and montane forests that support a wonderfully diverse avifauna. Join us on this Arfak bird watching adventure covering relevant elevations spread over four separate mini-expeditions into the wild interior.

Day-by-day itinerary

Day 1 > Arfak montane forests Early afternoon arrival at Manokwari’s Rendani Airport on domestic flight from Jakarta. After lunch in town, we shall set out on the two hours’ drive by 4WD-vehicle to Siyoubrig. Here we shall start our exploration of the Arfak Mountains in the evening with a gentle introduction to the commoner or more conspicuous species of the garden clearings and secondary forests: Fan-tailed Cuckoo, White-eared Bronze-Cuckoo, Whiskered and Yellow-billed Lorikeet, Slender-billed and Black-billed Cuckoo-Dove, White-bibbed Fruit-Dove, Red-collared Myzomela, Rufous-sided and Western Smoky Honeyeater, Brown-breasted Gerygone, Sclater’s Whistler, Superb Bird of Paradise, Black and Friendly Fantail, Capped White-eye, and Olive-crowned Flowerpecker. An optional nocturnal foray after dinner could produce Sooty Owl, Jungle Hawk-Owl, Large and Mountain Owlet-Nightjar, Papuan Frogmouth, and Large-tailed Nightjar.

Day 2 > Arfak montane forests Depending on the previous night’s results, the weather and our morale, we could start out early with a short spotlighting session. We shall have our hearty breakfast while enjoying the developing dawn chorus, and gather at the edge of a garden clearing around first light when many species actively forage into the open. Here and in adjacent tracts of secondary forest we may see Long-billed, Marbled, Rufous-sided and Western Smoky Honeyeater, Vogelkop Melidectes, Perplexing, Vogelkop, Grey-green and Pale-billed Scrubwren, Blue-grey and Green-backed Robin, Mountain Peltops, Black-shouldered Cicadabird, Black Monarch, Black-breasted Boatbill and Island Leaf-Warbler. We shall then proceed to an area where several display courts of the Magnificent Bird of Paradise are located, in the hope to witness the full array of amazing display postures of this beautiful species at close range from a hide. The rest of the morning, we shall search for species likely to elude us for a while or for which better views may be desirable: Vogelkop Melidectes, Green-backed Robin, Spotted Catbird, Superb Bird of Paradise, Western Parotia and Long-tailed Paradigalla. After lunch we’ll have the rest of the day to seek out these most-wanted birds at known haunts or otherwise, and pay attention to other hot stuff as Bronze Ground-Dove, White-striped Forest-Rail, Garnet Robin, Mottled Whistler, Great Wood-swallow, Torrent-lark, Lemon-breasted and Spotted Berrypecker, and partly nomadic Blue-faced and Papuan Parrotfinch. After dinner we could try our luck again at spotlighting some of the above mentioned nocturnal species present here.

Day 3 > Arfak montane forests As always, a nocturnal foray prior to our pre-dawn breakfast remains a possibility. Today, we shall bird around the garden clearing near camp at first light and then slowly ascend to a camp at the edge of a garden clearing in primary forest at 1,815 m elevation. As we gradually shift to higher ground and enter primary forest we shall start hearing Shining Imperial-Pigeon, Papuan Treecreeper, Vogelkop Bowerbird, Mountain Mouse-warbler, Mountain Gerygone, Canary Flyrobin, Spotted Jewel-Babbler, Rufous-naped Whistler, Black Pitohui, and Dimorphic Fantail. After lunch at our new camp we shall monitor nearby display courts of the Western Parotia from comfortable hides. The wacko ballet performance of the court-tending male of this species simply has to be witnessed to be believed, and invariably ranks as a highlight of a birding trip to the Arfaks. Having truly absorbed this, we shall spend the last hours of light birding around the garden clearing near camp, where we may be rewarded with sightings of White-eared Bronze-Cuckoo, Pygmy Lorikeet, Red-breasted Pygmy-Parrot, Blue-collared Parrot, Long-tailed Buzzard, Vogelkop Melidectes, Mountain Peltops, and Long-tailed Paradigalla. After dinner we could attempt a short nocturnal exploration of the vicinity in search of Sooty Owl, Jungle Hawk-Owl, and Large and Mountain Owlet-Nightjar, while there’s always a good chance of roding New Guinea Woodcock here.

Day 4 > Arfak montane forests Following an optional nocturnal foray and our usual pre-dawn breakfast we shall bird the first hour of light around the garden clearing near camp where we hope to attract Long-tailed Paradigalla, if need be. We shall then spend some time again at the Parotia display courts, which besides the not-to-be-missed display performances of the parotias themselves, also provide a reasonable chance of seeing otherwise highly retiring species as Wattled Brush-turkey and Bronze Ground-Dove casually walking across the courts in search of parotia faeces containing undigested fruit items. The rest of the morning we shall bird in the primary forest in the vicinity where we may be rewarded with sightings of Vogelkop Bowerbird and Spotted Jewel-Babbler. After lunch we shall require most of the afternoon to climb further to a camp in primary forest at 2,130 m elevation, which we shall use as our base over the next two days. Along the way we may spot Rufous-throated Bronze-Cuckoo, Papuan Lorikeet, Red-breasted Pygmy-Parrot, Brehm’s and Modest Tiger-Parrot, the rare Pesquet’s Parrot, Papuan Mountain Pigeon, Varied Sittella, Regent Whistler, Black Pitohui, Black Sicklebill, Black-bellied Cuckoo-shrike, and Fan-tailed Berrypecker. In case of dry weather, we should still be able to watch the evening display of the adult male Black Sicklebill near camp. Dusk shall see us standing in a tree-fall gap in anticipation of roding New Guinea Woodcock. Sooty Owl, Jungle Hawk-Owl, and Large and Mountain Owlet-Nightjar all are possible on an optional nocturnal excursion after dinner.

Day 5 > Arfak montane forests Following an optional spotlighting session, we’ll enjoy our breakfast while listening to the developing dawn chorus including Vogelkop Scrubwren, Smoky and Ashy Robin, and especially Regent Whistler, a powerful and varied songster. In season, Wattled Brush-turkey, which reaches the upper limit of its altitudinal distribution here, may deliver its striking display call from an incubation mound near camp. We shall bird all morning along a loop descending to 1,920 m elevation, primarily in search of the potentially highly elusive Arfak Astrapia and Black-billed Sicklebill, while also seeking good views of skulkers as Lesser Ground-robin, Smoky and Ashy Robins, Spotted Jewel-Babbler and Lesser Melampitta. In sunny weather, New Guinea Eagle may be heard calling persistently here and tracked down with moderate effort. Moreover, we shall pass numerous bowers of the Vogelkop Bowerbird. After lunch at camp we could try other known haunts of the Arfak Astrapia higher up the mountain in the afternoon. Other goodies we may see here include Chestnut Forest-Rail, Black-mantled Goshawk, Orange-crowned Fairywren, Olive Straightbill, Cinnamon-browed Melidectes, Black-throated Robin, Varied Sittella, Mottled Whistler, Black Pitohui, and Tit Berrypecker. Dusk shall see us back at camp for another New Guinea Woodcock watch in a tree-fall gap followed by dinner and optional nocturnal walk.

Day 6 > Arfak montane forests After a hearty pre-dawn breakfast we shall commence our assault on the 2,425 m high summit of Mount Indon, trying Mountain Swiftlet, Cinnamon-browed Melidectes, Black-throated Honeyeater and adult male Arfak Astrapia as we stroll through utterly stunning cloud forests, swathed in mosses and epiphytes. Other goodies we may catch up with here are Brehm’s Tiger-Parrot, Olive Straightbill, Mountain Mouse-warbler, Black-throated Robin, Spotted Jewel-Babbler and Tit Berrypecker. We’ll have snacks and lunch underway and return to camp by mid-afternoon only, but in time for another observation of the evening display of the Black Sicklebill and New Guinea Woodcock watch at dusk, if the weather allows. Dinner and optional spotlighting session as per usual.

Day 7 > Arfak montane forests Following an optional nocturnal foray and pre-dawn breakfast, we shall bird all morning along the loop descending to 1,920 m where we’ll stand another chance of seeing New Guinea Eagle, Black-billed Sicklebill and Arfak Astrapia. After lunch at camp we shall bird towards a new camp at 1,900 m, located near two forest clearings in primary ridgetop forest. Dusk shall see us gathered at the edge of one of the clearings in anticipation of Archbold’s Nightjar hawking low over the heathy vegetation. After dinner we shall continue the search for this enigmatic species, which was discovered in the Arfak Mountains only as recently as 1995, more than 600 km away from its nearest known locality in the Snow Mountains.

Day 8 > Arfak montane forests If need be, we shall try Archbold’s Nightjar prior to our pre-dawn breakfast. We shall bird around the clearings early morning where we could be rewarded with observations of Brehm’s and Modest Tiger-Parrot, Blue-collared Parrot, Mountain Swiftlet, Black-throated Honeyeater, Cinnamon-browed and Vogelkop Melidectes, and Great Wood-swallow. We’ll then shift to the forest again where we’ll look primarily for the beautiful New Guinea Logrunner at known home-ranges. During this search we may also encounter Garnet, Black-throated, Smoky and Ashy Robin, Spotted Jewel-Babbler, Mottled Whistler, and Black Pitohui among others. There is also a territory and known nest site of the New Guinea Eagle in the immediate vicinity, which we could try. We may continue the search for these elusive species after lunch or we could bird all afternoon in the clearings and adjacent forests. We’ll have another evening and night to catch up with Archbold’s Nightjar if necessary, with dinner in between.

Day 9 > Arfak montane forests Following an optional nocturnal foray and our pre-dawn breakfast, we shall have an entire last morning to seek some of the most elusive species already mentioned above. After lunch, we shall require most of the afternoon to slowly bird down through pristine forests to the Mokwam road at 1,600 m elevation. Here 4WD-vehicles await us to transport us back to Manokwari. Dinner and overnight in Manokwari hotel.

Day 10 > Anggi Giji Basin After a hearty pre-dawn breakfast in our Manokwari hotel, we shall transfer to Rendani Airport at first light in order to board our chartered aircraft. The short 45 minutes hop shall take us above the spectacular Prafi Valley, past Mount Indon, into the Anggi Giji Basin at Irai. From here we shall bird all morning following the seasonally fluctuating lake edge to the settlement of Hunku. Pacific Black Duck, Common Coot, Little Grebe, Little Pied and Little Black Cormorant, Great and Intermediate Egret, and Rufous Night-Heron abound and it shall not take long before we spot our first flock of Grey-banded Munias, which in season can congregate in flocks of more than 150 individuals. But observing the two secretive rails may require considerable effort and is influenced also by water levels in the basin. After lunch we shall bird all afternoon in the lakeside grasslands, where we may accidentally flush Lewin’s Rail. Towards eve we shall take up position at locally exposed muddy stretches at the interface between grassland and reedbeds bordering the lake's edge. Here both Spotless Crake and Lewin’s Rail ordinarily come out to feed at dusk and we may hear both species vocalizing in season. Other birds we may see here include Black and Yellow Bittern, Clamorous Reed-Warbler, and Tawny Grassbird. Dinner at Hunku.

Day 11 > Anggi Giji Basin Subsequent to our pre-dawn breakfast, we’ll spend the first hour of light at muddy stretches and reedbeds along an affluent of Anggi Giji, then walk through grasslands toward a camp at the edge of the basin, where forest extends onto the surrounding hill slopes. After lunch here, we shall first bird the grasslands in this area, where we stand another chance of seeing Lewin’s Rail, and later shift to the forest in the hope of finding Shovel-billed Kookaburra, perhaps as it starts calling toward dusk. Other noteworthy forest birds that we may encounter here include New Guinea Woodcock, New Guinea Eagle, Vogelkop Bowerbird, Rufous-sided and Western Smoky Honeyeater, Vogelkop Scrubwren, and Black Sicklebill, while a nocturnal foray after dinner could produce Jungle Hawk-Owl, Large and Mountain Owlet-Nightjar, and Large-tailed Nightjar.

Day 12 > Anggi Giji Basin Following an optional spotlighting session and our usual pre-dawn breakfast we shall seek Shovel-billed Kookaburra at first light and spend the rest of the morning in the forest and grassland here. After lunch we shall walk back to Hunku, where we shall bird along the lake’s edge until dusk providing us with yet another opportunity to observe the rails. Dinner at Hunku.

Day 13 > Anggi Giji Basin and Arfak foothill forests After a pre-dawn breakfast we shall make our way back to the airstrip at Irai while birding along the lake’s edge. We shall have to board our chartered aircraft before mid-morning as the building-up of clouds may jeopardize a later return to Manokwari. Following an earlier than usual lunch in town, we shall set out on the two hours’ drive by chartered 4WD-vehicle to our drop-off point on the Oransbari peninsula, from where we shall bird all afternoon toward a camp at 180 m elevation in primary foothill forest along a fast-flowing stream. All along the walk, wacko Blyth’s Hornbills, majestic Palm and Sulphur-crested Cockatoos, and noisy Red-cheeked and Eclectus Parrots fly overhead as we familiarize ourselves with the common or more conspicuous forest interior birds: Rufous-bellied Kookaburra, Yellow-billed Kingfisher, Chestnut-breasted Cuckoo, Slender-billed and Great Cuckoo-Dove, Wompoo, Superb and Beautiful Fruit-Dove, Purple-tailed and Pinon Imperial-Pigeon, Tawny-breasted Honeyeater, New Guinea Friarbird, Rufous Babbler, Little Shrike-thrush, Variable and Rusty Pitohui, Hooded and Black Butcherbird, Brown Oriole, Northern Fantail, Spangled Drongo, Spot-winged and Frilled Monarch, Yellow-faced Myna, Black Berrypecker, and Green-crowned Longbill. After dinner at camp, Jungle Hawk-Owl, Wallace's Owlet-Nightjar, and Marbled Frogmouth may all be heard and, with some luck, seen on a nocturnal excursion here.

Day 14 > Arfak foothill forests We could start out early with a short spotlighting session, and shall take our breakfast as the dawn chorus develops. We shall bird all morning in the vicinity of camp, where we should soon be rewarded with sightings of the delightful Western Crowned-Pigeon and not-to-be-missed King Bird of Paradise. Other noteworthy species we may feast our eyes on here include Red-billed Talegalla, Hook-billed Kingfisher, Common Paradise-Kingfisher, White-crowned and Dwarf Koel, Yellow-capped Pygmy-Parrot, Large Fig-Parrot, Moluccan King-Parrot, Cinnamon Ground-Dove, Thick-billed Ground-Pigeon, White-eared Catbird, Black-sided and Torrent Robin, Blue Jewel-Babbler, and Magnificent and Lesser Bird of Paradise. After lunch, we shall continue the search for these and other goodies in the wider vicinity. Dinner and optional nocturnal walk near camp.

Day 15 > Arfak foothill forests Following an optional nocturnal foray and our usual pre-dawn breakfast, we have an entire morning to catch up with some of the most elusive species already mentioned above. There's also an excellent opportunity here to monitor one of several ground courts of the Magnificent Bird of Paradise if we haven't already witnessed this species' amazing display postures at Siyoubrig. After lunch we shall bird toward a camp at 275 m elevation. Red-billed Talegallas and Magnificent Riflebirds call everywhere in these foothills and it need not take long before we'll surprise our first pair of Blue Jewel-Babbler running away into cover. Other birds that we may see here include Long-billed Cuckoo, Double-eyed and Large Fig-Parrot, Pesquet’s Parrot, Pheasant Pigeon, Wallace’s Fairywren, Black-chinned Robin, Painted Quail-thrush, Rusty Whistler, and Rufous Monarch. Also here Jungle Hawk-Owl, Wallace's Owlet-Nightjar, and Marbled Frogmouth are possible during a nocturnal exploration of the vicinity.

Day 16 > Arfak foothill forests After an optional nocturnal foray and pre-dawn breakfast, we shall ascend slightly higher along a narrow ridge that supports a display tree of the Lesser Bird of Paradise where several fine adult males usually gather. We shall take ample time to observe and truly absorb the full array of displays and interactions at the lek. Besides, while sitting quietly in the forest, there’s always a chance of a Northern Cassowary, Red-billed Talegalla, or Pheasant Pigeon casually walking by. After lunch we shall spend most of the afternoon in a gulley, where we may be rewarded with sightings of Azure Kingfisher, Variable Dwarf Kingfisher, Thick-billed Ground-Pigeon, Red-bellied Pitta, Rusty Mouse-warbler, and Sooty Thicket-Fantail, if we haven’t already seen them elsewhere. After dinner a nocturnal walk is a possibility as ever.

Day 17 > Arfak foothill forests We could start out early again with a short spotlighting session prior to our pre-dawn breakfast, and shall have an entire final morning to get to grips with some of the most elusive species already mentioned above. After lunch at camp, we shall require most of the afternoon to slowly bird back to our pick-up point, where 4WD-vehicles stand by to transport us back to Manokwari. Dinner and a good night's rest in Manokwari hotel.

Day 18 > Arfak hill forests Having taken a hearty pre-dawn breakfast in our Manokwari hotel, we shall set out on the half hour’s drive to our drop-off point near the Maruni River, from where we shall walk and bird most of the morning to reach a camp at 800 m elevation. The first hour or so, while hiking through cocoa gardens and low-stature secondary growth, may be relatively dull with only a handful of species like Scrub and Mimic Honeyeater, Hooded Butcherbird, Spangled Drongo, Shining Flycatcher, and Olive-crowned Flowerpecker. But as soon as we enter primary forest at c. 500 m elevation, birds simply abound. Mixed insectivore feeding flocks usually include Pale-billed Scrubwren, Goldenface, Grey and Sclater’s Whistler, Variable and Hooded Pitohui, Magnificent Bird of Paradise, Yellow-eyed and Grey-headed Cuckoo-shrike, Chestnut-bellied and Northern Fantail, Pygmy and Spangled Drongo, Black-winged, Spot-winged and Frilled Monarch, Yellow-breasted Boatbill, Black-fronted White-eye, Black Berrypecker and Green-crowned Longbill. Everywhere in these hills resound the songs and calls of Red-billed Talegalla, Rufous-bellied Kookaburra, White-crowned and Dwarf Koel, Pheasant Pigeon, Green-backed Gerygone, Olive Flyrobin, Black-chinned Robin, Northern Scrub-Robin, Chestnut-backed Jewel-Babbler, Rusty Whistler, Little Shrike-thrush, Crested Pitohui, Trumpet Manucode, and Magnificent Riflebird. After lunch at camp, we shall hike slightly down towards a camp at 680 m elevation where we shall bird till dusk and stay overnight. With luck, we may hear and see the sought-after Shovel-billed Kookaburra here as well as a variety of commoner stuff like Palm Cockatoo, Moluccan King-Parrot, Stephan’s Dove, Superb and Beautiful Fruit-Dove, Red-bellied Pitta, Masked Bowerbird, Red-throated Myzomela, Puff-backed and Spotted Honeyeater, Rusty Mouse-warbler, White-faced Robin, Sooty Thicket-Fantail, Rufous-backed Fantail, and Golden Monarch. A nocturnal foray after dinner could produce Sooty Owl, Jungle Hawk-Owl, Wallace's Owlet-Nightjar, and Marbled Frogmouth.

Day 19 > Arfak hill forests Following an optional spotlighting session and our pre-dawn breakfast, we shall bird all morning in the relatively expansive flat area near camp, focusing on Shovel-billed Kookaburra at dawn and further seeking satisfying views of some of the more elusive and skulking species mentioned above. We shall then bird uphill to take lunch at the 800 m camp. In the afternoon we shall bird through gently rising ridgetop forest up to a new camp at 975 m elevation, where we shall spend the night. Flowering trees along the ridge attract colorful Fairy, Josephine’s and Papuan Lorikeets, diminutive Red, Mountain and Black Myzomelas, and sometimes Vogelkop Melidectes. Additional species that we shall look out for along the ridge include Double-eyed Fig-Parrot, Blue-collared and Pesquet’s Parrot, Thick-billed Ground-Pigeon, Spotted Catbird, Hill-forest Honeyeater, Wallace’s Fairywren, White-rumped Robin, Grey Crow, Crinkle-collared Manucode, Black-billed Sicklebill, Lesser Bird of Paradise, Mountain Peltops, Stout-billed Cuckoo-shrike, Black-shouldered Cicadabird, and Black Monarch, while a nocturnal excursion after dinner could produce Sooty Owl, the mid-montane, distinctive affinis-subspecies of Barred Owlet-Nightjar, and Marbled Frogmouth.

Day 20 > Arfak hill forests After an optional nocturnal walk and our usual pre-dawn breakfast we shall bird all morning in the ridgetop forest around camp. New Guinea Eagle can often be heard here in good weather and we may be lucky enough to track down this awesome bird. Several bowers of the gorgeous Masked Bowerbird are located near camp and we could monitor these from a hide early morning in order to get those much-wanted close-up views of this otherwise habitual canopy-dweller. And while sitting quietly in the forest here we may well attract skulking Red-billed Talegalla, Red-bellied Pitta, Rusty Mouse-warbler, White-rumped Robin, Northern Scrub-Robin, and Chestnut-backed Jewel-Babbler. After lunch, we shall require most of the afternoon to slowly bird back to our Maruni pick-up point from where we transfer back to Manokwari in the evening.

Day 21 > Manokwari Following a hearty breakfast in our Manokwari hotel we shall report at Rendani Airport for the mid-morning's flight to Jakarta.

Amazing Arfak

Day-by-day itinerary

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